It was all but official before the show began. This would be Peter Dundas’ last collection for Emilio Pucci. The reasons still aren’t clear, but if we had to guess, it’s because Dundas’ Pucci is more hot-blooded than blue-blooded. Pucci, the brand, was born on the island of Capri in the 1940s, and came to global prominence in the ’60s, when the jet set first impressed itself on the world at large. Dundas, who hailed from Roberto Cavalli (and, according to rumor, may be headed back there), didn’t necessarily break with Pucci’s past, but he had a vision of his own for the brand. His work for the label was unapologetically sexy, and he was in love with rock ‘n’ roll from his bold Fall ’09 beginning right on through to tonight, when Led Zeppelin dominated the soundtrack and a whole lot of legs ruled the catwalk.
“It’s a very personal collection,” Dundas pointed out in a preview. The sporty horizontal stripes on clingy ribbed knits were apparently a reference to the rowing league he belongs to in Florence. The fluttery white and black evening separates were a loving tribute to his mother, a violinist who wore the colors when she performed. Here and there, you could spot callbacks to former hits, like an ombré-dyed body-con minidress or electric-hued crushed-velvet trousers and an equally bright silk blouse. As for the astrology motifs running through the collection, does it get more personal than star signs? They turned up everywhere, from intarsia sweaterdresses to delicate beaded embroideries on a velvet blazer and a floor-scraping cape. For the finale, Dundas sent out his favorite models in long jersey T-shirt dresses, each with their own zodiac sign: Cancer for Anja Rubik, Leo for Joan Smalls, Aquarius for Lily Donaldson. The illustrations were sweeping, strong, and emotional; Dundas also pointed out they were rendered by hand, as Emilio Pucci himself used to do.
He invited his studio team out to take their final bow with him. It was a lovely, tender gesture. Dundas’ tenure at Pucci lasted six years, double that of his predecessor. He made the show one of Milan’s hottest tickets and dressed show business’ best bodies (Gwyneth, Beyoncé, and Rihanna included), in the process giving the Pucci legacy a fresh relevance—and he did it all with dashing good humor and charm. Personnel change every few years is now the norm, not the exception, at fashion houses, and whoever follows Dundas in the creative director role will likely take the label in a new direction, but no one will deny that, for much of his time here, he was a star turn.
Roberto Cavalli’s Ming-vase dress from Fall 2005—the one made famous by Victoria Beckham—is apparently part of the Met Museum Costume Institute’s big summer show, China: Through the Looking Glass. That was enough to make Cavalli look East for his latest collection. But there was more.In the Mood for Love, to be precise. The windowpane-checked cheongsam worn by Maggie Cheung in Wong Kar-Wai’s modern classic sparked a visible train of thought for the designer. The check was duplicated in white string embroidery on micro-sequined evening dresses, in the grid of white paillettes that nestled in a fur jacket, in the pattern formed by silk fringed to look like fur.
Then it was just a question of decorative detail: metal pagoda buttons, heavily beaded floral motifs from the Ming dynasty, sinuous opium-garden embroideries mounted on a faded tiger print, the gold fringing on a jade gilet, the abundant silk fringing that swept the floor in the finale. And the models walked under huge neon reproductions of traditional Chinese lanterns.
But this was potentially the collection that would seal the deal for a sale of the Cavalli company, so there were the signatures that underscored the brand identity, most obvious in the artisanal handwork but also inescapable in the more animal-based effects, like ocelot-printed pony skin, and in the tawny temptress vibe of evening dresses that floated in a cloud of sunray-pleated dégradé chiffon. Cavalli is lucky in that he is his own cliché. Judge him on his own terms, and this collection was a success. Widen the frame of reference, and you get the impression that something has to change.
Ivan Bellanova Couture Fall/Winter 2015 – Milan Fashion Week at The/Space – Via Savona 97 Loft 16 C – Milan
Italian Designer Ivan Bellanova presents his new FW 2015 Capsule Collection and previews the new Beachwear 2016 Collection. The luxury designs, made with love and inspired by his heritage, perfect suit to today`s working women: Elegant during the day and “the one and only” during night.
FW 2015 CAPSULE COLLECTION:
The collection consists of dresses, jackets and skirts. All the garments work as single pieces and can also be combined in various ways – always dressed perfectly for any occasion. The main colour of the collection is grey used in 3 tones, to show the special urban style of today women living a “big city life”. The basic fabrics are winter cotton and wool creating a warm and comfortable atmosphere. Bright details in red, blue and yellow reflects the “lights” of the city nightlife. Decorative elements, inlaid like a marble intarsia, generate a geometrical order that give the garments a unique handmade “twist”. Silhouettes are tight underlining femininity and sophistication.
PREVIEW BEACHWEAR SS 2016:
It is a preview of the SS 2016 Beachwear Collection accomplished by light tunics, promenade dresses and ponchos. The samples are bright coloured with summer prints with various colour combinations creating a happy, sunny and delightful mood. Silhouettes are simple and comfortable for the beach. Garments are decorated with amazing ribbons. www.beechwear.com
Born on the ancient island of Sardinia, surrounded by crystal blue waters of the Mediterranean, the designer soon discovered its artisan treasure, exemplified in jewellery and traditional dresses. The intricate lacework of gold and silver jewellery instilled in Ivan the sense of preciousness. Combining his passion for design in all its facets – from art over fashion to architecture studied in Florence – Ivan Bellanova creates fashion for women who feel young and secure at the same time, open for new experience yet already settled.
For the last couple of years Ivan Bellanova satisfied the most demanding request in an atelier in Florence, his work always passionate and perfect. In this season he decided to do the next step to establish himself as a designer bysharing his métier to the wider public and creating a collection for the whole women`s Fashion World.
1° – Mert & Marcus
Mert & Marcus, who are Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott, top the list for multiple reasons — the breadth of their work across publications (Vogue USA, Vogue Italia, W Magazine, Pop Magazine, Numéro, and more) and brands (Louis Vuitton, Missoni, Giorgio Armani, Roberto Cavalli, Fendi, Kenzo, Miu Miu, and more), their unique style since joining forces in the mid 90s, and their ability to make innovative use of digital technology. Their work boasts perfection, both in their photography and in the presentation of their subjects, which is a result of fine-tuned craft and attention to appearance. In the genre of fashion photography, where perfection is paramount, Mert & Marcus are undoubtedly, and continually, at the top of the game.
2 ° -Nick Knight
Nick Knight came up through fashion, beginning with a book of photographs titled Skinheads that he released in 1982 while still a student in the U.K. He was soon noticed by i-D Magazine, Yohji Yamamoto, and Peter Saville, and has now shot campaigns for the likes of Alexander McQueen, Calvin Klein, Christian Dior, Jil Sander, Lancôme, Levi Strauss, Yves Saint Laurent, and more. He’s shown work internationally and was even appointed Officer of the Order of the British Empire in the 2010 Birthday Honors.
In November 2000, Knight launched SHOWStudio.com, a site dedicated to cutting-edge fashion media. It’s been recognized as a huge contribution to the fashion world in its experimental nature and its wide variety of top-notch, influential contributors.
3 ° – Inez & Vinoodh
Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin have been unstoppable since they joined forces in 1986. Their talent was noticed by the fashion world after they created successful fine art projects together, notably for Lawina, MoMA PS1, and BLVD Magazine. They’ve challenged, reinvented, and rejuvenated fashion photography in ways no one can deny, winning countless awards for their work with Vogue, Paris Vogue, Vogue Italia, W, Visionaire, Vanity Fair, Harper’s Bazaar, L’Uomo Vogue, Interview, and others. They’ve also done iconic campaigns for houses Yves Saint Laurent, Balmain, Nina Ricci, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Isabel Marant, Giuseppe Zanotti, Lanvin Homme, Miu Miu, Balenciaga, Givenchy, and more. Their legacy thus far has been that of being pioneers in digital photography and creating a style of their own in the fashion photography world.
4 ° -Steven Meisel
Steven Meisel’s career started with work for Vogue and W. The fashion and music worlds became more aware of him through his photographs for Madonna’s 1992 book, Sex. From a young age, he was obsessed with beauty and models, who at the time were Twiggy, Veruschka, and Jean Shrimpton. The story goes that at twelve years old, he would have his girl friends call agencies, pretending to be secretaries of Richard Avedon, so he could get pictures of the models. Although he studied fashion photography at Parsons, he got the attention of Seventeen Magazine, after they saw the portfolio photos he took for his model friends as favors. His career is also marked by launching the careers of designers, stylists, make-up artists, hair-stylists, and models who he “discovered,” such as Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell, Kristy Turlington, Lara Stone, Coco Rocha, and Raquel Zimmerman, who he’d feature in Vogue and Prada ad campaigns. He’s also credited for launching the career of Ross Van Der Heide after he showed his work to Anna Sui. He continues to photograph every cover of Vogue Italia, maintaining a close relationship with its editor-in-chief, Franca Sozzani.
5 ° – Mario Testino
Mario Testino is such an iconic and legendary photographer by now that it’s hard to believe he grew up wanting to be a priest, or that he dyed his hair pink to get noticed when he did realize he wanted to be a photographer. He’s shot an overwhelming number of celebrities and cultural icons, from Diana, the Princess of Wales to Emma Watson, Cameron Diaz, Gwyneth Paltrow, Julia Roberts, Kristen Stewart, Gisele Bündchen, and Lady Gaga. He and stylist Carine Roitfeld are credited with reviving Gucci in the mid-90s with their groundbreaking, provocative ad campaigns. He’s continued to shoot for nearly every magazine, in addition to Burberry, Gucci, Versace, Calvin Klein, Dolce & Gabbana, Salvatore Ferragamo, Estee Launder, Michael Kors, and more. He continues to receive royal commissions, and in 2002 had a massively successful show at The National Portrait Gallery in London titled Portraits, which went on to tour in other cities internationally.
6 ° – Bruce Weber
Bruce Weber is legendary. He’s shot some of the most iconic Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Abercrombie & Fitch, and Versace ads to have ever been made, and continues to shoot for Vogue, GQ, Vanity Fair, Elle, and Interview. He got his start atGQ in the late 70s, but received widespread recognition for his Calvin Klein ads in the late 80s and early 90s for his in-your-face black and white images of both heterosexual and homosexual couples. He has also collaborated extensively with Ralph Lauren and done music videos for the Pet Shop Boys.
7 ° – Patrick Demarchelier
Patrick Demarchelier’s career began to take off in the early 90s, when Elle, Marie Claire, 20 Ans Magazine, Vogue, and Harper’s Bazaar took notice of his immense talent. He solidified a 12-year collaboration with Harper’s Bazaar, has shot covers for nearly every major fashion magazine, and did iconic ad campaigns for Dior, Louis Vuitton, Celine, TAG Heuer, Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Lacoste, Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren. In 2005, he was awarded the contract for the Pirelli calendar. He continues to be a force in fashion photography and has interestingly been referenced in The Devil Wears Prada, Sex and the City, and America’s Next Top Model.
8 ° – Rankin
John Rankin Waddell, who goes by the name, Rankin, has had an immense photography career so far, of which fashion is just the tip of the iceberg. He, along with his partner, Jefferson Hack, started Dazed & Confused magazine, and since, he’s also started Another, Another Man, and HUNGER — all magazines that champion top-notch photography and art direction. His work for numerous other publications quickly became fine art exhibitions, ad campaigns, documentaries, and music videos, and he’s found brilliant ways to connect his work with philanthropic efforts. In short, Rankin’s influence as a fashion photographer has launched the careers of others to unexpectedly incredible proportions.
9 ° – Juergen Teller
Juergen Teller’s raw, overexposed style has made his work unmistakable. Mostly shooting in color, he has shot every Marc Jacobs campaign since 1998, including ones featuring celebrities like Winona Ryder, Sofia Coppola, Rufus Wainwright, M.I.A., and others. He tends to include himself in his photographs — in 2005, he photographed himself with Cindy Sherman for a Marc Jacobs ad. Teller also has close collaborative relationships with Helmut Lang, Yves Saint Laurent, Vivienne Westwood, and Céline. He has shown in a multitude of group and individual exhibitions, including at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Museum of Modern Art, and the Venice Biennale. In 2008, he and Marc released the book Juergen Teller: Marc Jacobs Advertising 1997-2008, which quickly sold out via pre-order.
10° – Annie Leibovitz
Annie Leibovitz is most known for her portrait photography and editorial work, most recently for a multitude of Vanity Fair issues since the 80s, yet her work crosses over to fashion. However, her career began as a staff photographer forRolling Stone Magazine, which she eventually became chief photographer for. She went on tour with The Rolling Stones in 1975, work for Vanity Fair in 1980, and launch Numérous exhibitions, books, and collaborations since. Many of her images have a huge place in our culture today, including the December 8, 1980 image of John Lennon and Yoko Ono, five hours before he was shot and killed. She photographed Queen Elizabeth II for her official Virginia state visit picture and the controversial Miley Cyrus topless Vanity Fair cover.
11° – Ellen von Unwerth
Ellen von Unwerth’s style is erotic and feminine, with an understanding of beauty that’s all her own. Interestingly enough, she was a model for ten years before pursuing a career as a photographer. The fashion world took notice of her skill after she shot Claudia Schiffer, and since, she’s shot for Vogue, Vanity Fair, Interview, Arena, L’Uomo Vogue, and more, in addition to publishing books and winning countless awards. She’s also known for shooting the early GUESS Jeans campaigns, which she shot again for the company’s 30th anniversary.
12° – Terry Richardson
Terry Richardson’s name is nearly synonymous with fashion photography, if not the entire genre of photography itself. His past as a serious bass guitarist in a punk rock band suggested that he wouldn’t follow in the footsteps of his photographer father, but he did, and has done incredibly well for himself. His style has always been highly sexualized and controversial, causing some to say that he’s re-instilled rawness into fashion photography, and causing others to say that he takes it too far.
While his work includes — but is not limited to — fashion photography, he’s shot for brands Marc Jacobs, Aldo, Supreme, Tom Ford, Yves Saint Laurent, and more, and has done covers and spreads for GQ, Vogue, Vanity Fair, i-D, Vice, Harper’s Bazaar, Dazed and Confused, and others. He had his first solo show TERRYWOOD at OHWOW Gallery in LA earlier this year.
13°- Mariano Vivanco
Mariano Vivanco, like many photographers on this list, got his start at Dazed & Confused. While working for the magazine in 2001, he met and began collaborating with stylist Nicola Formichetti (now Lady Gaga’s fashion director) on numerous iconic covers. Since, he’s published seven books for Dolce & Gabbana and photographed extensively for Vogue Hommes Nippon, Numéro, Numéro Homme, i-D, Dazed & Confused, Hercules, Details, GQ Italy, GQ Spain, Wonderland, Allure, Elle, and Vogue. He has three portraits in the National Portrait Gallery, of Lily Cole, Nicola Formichetti, and Rafael Bonachella. Having shot a ton of celebrities at the early stages of their careers, he published the book Ninety Five Chapel Market in 2008, which included Seinna Miller, David Gandy, Lily Cole, and others. He has recently done extensive collaborations with Formichetti, Mugler, and Lady Gaga, which includes photographing her for i-D Magazine’s “Exhibitionist Issue,” wearing Mugler.
14° -Steven Klein
Steven Klein studied painting before moving into his career as a photographer. His ad campaigns for Calvin Klein, D&G, Alexander McQueen, and Nike, in addition to spreads and covers for Vogue, i-D, Numéro, W, and Arena, catapulted him quickly into a realm of the greats. He’s collaborated extensively with Madonna, most notably on multiple W Magazine editorials and a traveling installation called X-STaTIC PRO=CeSS, which also included a limited-release book. His fashion photography, as a whole, has led him to work with other pop stars — Lady Gaga, Rihanna, and Britney Spears — in both photo and film.
15° – Peter Lindbergh
Peter Lindbergh is a fashion photography icon, interpreting the medium ingeniously in both commercial and fine art capacities since the late 70s. He got his start at Vogue but was quickly noticed by The New Yorker, Vanity Fair, Allure, and Rolling Stone. He shoots mostly in black and white, inspired by early German cinema and the Berlin art scene of the 1920s. In 1988, he shot Anna Wintour for her first cover of Vogue. In January 1990, he shot the iconic Vogue cover featuring Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell, Tatjana Patitz, Cindy Crawford, and Christy Turlington. Besides his commercial work, his 1986 exhibition put on by Comme des Garçons was a massive hit, his 1996 book 10 Women by Peter Lindbergh sold over 100k copies, and his shows and retrospectives at Bunkamura Museum of Art, the Met, and the Ullens Center for Contemporary Art have broken attendance records. He’s ambitiously ventured into film and other genres of photography, always knowing how to create a classic image.
16 ° – Craig McDean
Craig McDean had been trained as a car mechanic before studying photography. He began as an assistant to Nick Knight and did editorials for i-D and The Face, before getting noticed by Jil Sander, Calvin Klein, Harper’s Bazaar, Vogue, W, andAnother Magazine. He now shoots campaigns for Gucci, Giorgio Armani, Emporio Armani, Oscar de la Renta, Yves Saint Laurent, Calvin Klein, and Estée Lauder.
17° – Alasdair McLellan
Alasdair McLellan’s work can be found across publications, from W Magazine toSelf Service, Vogue, V, LOVE, Another, i-D, and more. He’s shot ad campaigns for Emporio Armani, David Beckham for H&M, Equipment, Calvin Klein, Y3, and Longchamp, and in 2012, he photographed the popular image of Kate Moss smoking a cigarette for Supreme.
18° – David LaChapelle
David LaChapelle was put on in the photography world by none other than Andy Warhol, who noticed his talent, and assigned him work for Interview Magazine. His work hasn’t been strictly fashion or commercial, but much of his success can be attributed to his blurring of editorial, fine art, and fashion. He’s shot iconic spreads, covers, and ad campaigns for Italian Vogue, French Vogue, Vanity Fair, GQ, and i-D, in addition to a plethora of celebrity portraiture. His style has retained its hyper-realistic, highly saturated aesthetic, often making social commentary.
19° – Karl Lagerfeld
Karl Lagerfeld is mostly known as the head designer and creative director of Chanel, but his photography career is lasting and impressive. Among his notable projects are Visionaire 23: The Emperor’s New Clothes (series of nude models and celebrities), a 2005 V cover of Mariah Carey, a 2011 VMAN cover of Kanye West, and his 2012 Little Black Jacket exhibition.
20° – Mario Sorrenti
Mario Sorrenti became well-known from his nudes for Vogue and Harper’s Bazaarand ad campaigns for Calvin Klein. Always provocative and stunning, his work forW, Self Service, Vanity Fair, Another Man, Lancôme, Paco Rabanne, Benetton, and the Pirelli Calendar 2012 is equally impressive. He continues to shoot and show work internationally, including at the Victoria and Albert Museum and the Museum of Modern Art.
Coco Chanel: Masterful Storytelling in The Luxury Branding Industry
In order to appreciate the brand, you need to understand the magnificent lady behind it. You also need to understand how she viewed the world, the struggles she faced, and the humongous mountains she had to move to get herself and her brand (one and the same) to where it is today.
You see, Chanel is not just another luxury fashion brand. It’s a philosophy, a state of mind, a statement, a label, worn with pride to say to the world I’ve arrived, ….
Chanel’s foray into brand storytelling is a good example of how luxury brands should advertise. After all they’re not selling a product, they’re selling a lifestyle, they’re selling status and most importantly, they’re selling heritage.
Heritage commands big bucks at the tills and this is exactly what Chanel have masterfully communicated with their story-styled ad.
The main reason why this particular brand story works so well is because it ticks off all the elements of a good story.
First off, it starts with Once upon a time… brilliant!
It also has..
A Poweful Plot: Woman out to change the face of fashion against all odds
- Protagonist- Coco Chanel
- Antagonist: poverty/society
A Struggle – Against poverty and society’s fear of change and the unknown
A Resolution: Coco Chanel overcomes all odds and decides to continue on with the journey she started.
What I love most about the story, is its open narrative which maintains its relevance across generations
What do you think of the Chanel brand and their latest story-styled ad? Share your views
Miu Miu enlists for its Croisière 2015 campaign the gorgeous up and coming model Natalie Westling as the new face of the brand, photographed by photographer Jamie Hawkesworth. The beautifully captured session took place in Olkhon Island in September 2014.
Jamie Hawkesworth’s portraits of flame-haired Natalie Westling – capturing the psychedelic allure of the Miu Miu Croisière 2015 collection ¬– are paired next to photographs of the built and natural world, shot with Hawkesworth’s instinctive eye for pattern and composition, and his signature saturated colour palette. Sunset shades of ochre, moss green and cerulean blue permeate the landscapes, offering a poetic counterpoint to the multi-coloured pattern, texture, and colour combinations of the collection. Giant swirling floral and paisley prints, striking crocheted vests and an embellished suede mini dress meet a rusting building, sky-blue painted wooden planks and the twisted naked branches of a perfectly framed tree, delicate but statuesque, much like Westling herself. – from Miu Miu
Here some pics from the Miu Miu Croisiere Collection 2015
Joe Eula, an illustrator who caught the riotous curves of fashion from Dior’s New Look in the 1940’s until the end of Saint Laurent’s reign, died a week ago in Kingston, N.Y. He was 79 and lived in Manhattan and in Hurley, N.Y.
He died after going into a hospital recently because of pneumonia and a bad reaction to chemotherapy, said a nephew, Tom Eula.
Although he was a free spirit who drew quickly and often cut his ties when it suited him, Mr. Eula was no artistic dabbler. His illustrations accompanied Eugenia Sheppard’s fashion columns in The New York Herald Tribune. He created album covers and concert posters for performers like Miles Davis, Liza Minnelli, Bette Midler and the Supremes. He designed costumes for Jerome Robbins and George Balanchine. He illustrated Tiffany’s “Table Manners for Teenagers.” In 1970, he became creative director of Halston, acting as both instigator and provocateur.
In 1973, when Halston and four other American designers went to France to present their clothes at Versailles opposite five French couturiers, Mr. Eula created the backdrop for the Americans’ set. When he discovered that the drapery they had planned to use fell short of the stage floor because of a faulty conversion from meters into yards, Mr. Eula went out and bought a roll of white seamless paper and, using black stove paint and a broom, sketched the Eiffel Tower. It was a sensation.
Speed and a gift for improvising combined with joie de vivre characterized Mr. Eula’s life: he wasn’t a designer, but he had judgment and flair that the best designers trusted.
He was born Jan. 16, 1925, in Norwalk, Conn., the second of four children. He was 2 when his father died and his mother, Lena, supported the family by running a grocery store. After graduating from high school in 1942, Mr. Eula enlisted in the ski-borne 10th Mountain Division, serving in the Italian campaign. He was awarded the Bronze Star.
After his discharge, in December 1945, Mr. Eula enrolled at the Art Students League in Manhattan. While he was still a student, his first illustrations were published in Town & Country magazine, when Baron Nicolas de Gunzburg was editor. He also did drawings for Saks Fifth Avenue.
Mr. Eula’s illustrations were distinguished by a light, brisk hand and an unstudied sense of female movement. In the mid 50’s, he began his association with Ms. Sheppard, whose influential syndicated column, Inside Fashion, appeared in more than 80 newspapers in the United States. They attended the twice-yearly collections in Paris, with Mr. Eula duplicating in ink and charcoal the elegance he saw in the salons. He was present for Yves Saint Laurent’s first collection for Dior, in 1958, and for his last, in January 2002, with those sketches appearing in The New York Times Magazine. He also had a long association with Italian Harpers Bazaar.
His life was one of fortuitous intersections that seemed to characterize New York in the postwar era. He and the photographer Milton Greene met in the 40’s and used to hang out with jazz musicians like Mr. Davis, for whom Mr. Eula designed a black silk suit and later the cover for his album “Sketches of Spain.” He was present for Mr. Greene’s famous “Black Sitting” with Marilyn Monroe, and in 1960 the two men formed a partnership that eventually produced hundreds of images for Life magazine, including the cover with Faye Dunaway in “Bonnie and Clyde.” He also directed a television special for Lauren Bacall.
Based on an invitation that Mr. Eula had designed for a benefit for Cesar Chavez and the National Farm Workers Union, Mr. Robbins asked him to design costumes for his 1969 ballet “Dances at a Gathering.” He also designed the costumes for Mr. Robbins’s “Goldberg Variations.”
Mr. Eula’s knowledge of style extended far beyond illustration. He spent much of the 70’s working with Halston.
“I’ve always maintained that, thanks to Joe Eula and Elsa Peretti, Halston became what he was in terms of style,” said the designer Fernando Sanchez, a friend of Mr. Eula’s since the early 60’s. “They really defined Halston’s style and the idea that chic doesn’t necessarily imply money.”
In the 80’s, Mr. Eula began to spend more time at his home in Dutchess County, where even his arrangements of summer vegetables betrayed a critical eye. He designed a line of china for Tiffany based on flowers and animals, which the store continues to sell. He drew his last fashion illustrations in August for The Times, of a series of fall coats.
Addio Mr. Eula – R.I.P
From the expanses of savannah to the catwalks of the world. Today, the fashion made in Africa and inspired by the traditions, completely ethical and sustainable, it is increasingly fashionable. And it is a source of inspiration for music and photography here is how:
Where trends are born? This is the question that people who work in fashion arises daily. There are those who favors big cities, those who think they are born directly in the studio, or those who speak of “alchemy against the grain”, leading the way and the common people as the true origin of trends and fashions. Not only that. Thanks to globalization, and the ability to reach virtually the other side of the world in an instant, even those countries currently excluded from the creative process because they are too far away or tied in a difficult socio-political situation, have proved a source of inspiration ever original, and topping the charts there is no doubt Africa.
A huge continent of over 30 million square kilometers, multi-faceted, with a history often difficult and dramatic; a mysterious place, and therefore irresistible. And now it is here that creative people are left.
WATCH THE TREND
One of the first designers to bring the catwalk a collection inspired by the Dark Continent was Lamine Badian Kouyaté, better known by its brand name, Xuly Bet, which in Wolof, the Senegalese language, means “keep an open mind.” After living in Paris and studying at the Ecole Nationale Superieure d’Architecture in Strasbourg in 1989 launched his own collection, very “open minded” and innovative: its ability to recycle fabrics found in flea markets and in turn colorful patchwork is winning. He is inspired by the great couturiers such as Azzedine Alaia and Yves Saint Laurent, combining materials and colors of contemporary Africa, not to mention the seventies punk rock and funk. The result is a mini-dresses with colorful wax fabric and leather, hand embroidery and volumes emphasized. Everything, for the first time, is developed and produced in an ethical and sustainable embroidery on jackets and painted fabrics, for example, are commissioned to African women in exchange for a fair wage and decent working conditions. No one before him had done.
It is this sensitivity to certain customs that came back to get noticed on the runway, pushed by his growing success in music and photography: shooting Koen Hauser in “The Hommage a l’Art” (2013), for example, are a celebration of African fashion, and have been around the world. They were created to celebrate one of the leading manufacturers of fabrics wax in the industry, Vlisco has always been committed to supporting African designers: to do so regularly organizes courses in tailoring for women Ghanaian, Nigerian finance the most talented designers and the sponsor of two of the most important events of the style “Made in Africa”: the Nairobi Fashion Week and the Lagos Fashion and Design Week (the latter was also a guest of Pitti Immagine W in 2012). At the same time there is also the work of songwriters such as folk artist Imany, now popular all over the world, who in the show never abandons his turban typical of the Comoros islands.
This is the fabulous Elie Saab Fall 2014-2015 Couture Collection. Elie Saab really focused on glamour and red carpet looks for this haute couture collection. The gowns are are delicately embellished with sequins, crystals, and pearls.
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It was easy to be a little worried about David Koma’s Spring presentation, now that the Georgian designer is the artistic director of Mugler. Since that was a lifelong dream for him, one wondered if he might put his heart and soul into Mugler at the expense of his eponymous line, or whether he’d be able to multitask.
Koma’s challenge was to make sure there was a distinct separation between his Mugler collection and his own, and also to breathe new life into his body-con aesthetic. The designer uses color sparingly—he is very architecturally oriented and often sticks to black and white—so it was a welcome surprise to see shots of citron yellow in the first looks. Color was introduced with restraint: a simple strip on just one side of some shorts, a pop of it on a waistline or collar.
The body-con pieces had cutout waists, sheer panel details, and organza overlay—add to all that the asymmetrical hem, and there were a lot of ideas not seen in previous Koma collections. A supersharp dress in electric blue or pure white had geometric cutouts and bathing-suit-strap details that added interest, but the real standouts were the crystal-embedded looks with minute handwork and meticulous geometry. All in all, Koma made his point: When it comes to his own line, he is definitely not asleep at the wheel.
As an organic continuation of Jeremy Scott and adidas Original’s decade-long collaboration, the iconic designer continues the partnership by introducing both new exciting styles and his signature classics for F/W 2014.
The unique partnership combines Scott’s characteristic point of view on luxury streetwear, through his use of qualitative fabrics and intricate prints, and adidas Originals’ longstanding dedication to hi-tech and versatile sportswear.
In a second drop on 31 October, Scott uses leather, netting, sequin and metal mesh. Diverse inspirations from bondage great to hip-hop wear appear throughout the collection. Embroidered gold music notes further the musical theme. Other graphic stories include tiger prints and logo mania.
Key footwear pieces for men include the Tall Boy which makes a return in shearling in October. For the ladies, Scott is reaching for new heights with he High Heel Tower Hi Top which are dominant styles in the womenswear line
This season Diane von Furstenberg gave the fashion world a modern day update of the French Riviera style of the 1950s. The designer posed herself the question: what would an in her prime Bridget Bardot wear today?
The answer seemed to be that she would still favor quite a lot of girly gingham. But to better catch the summer sunlight beating down on the Cote d’Azur she would embellish her bra tops, flirty short day dresses or palm frond tunic top in glossy brightly colored sequins, micro crystals or reflective mirrored embellishments.
The smiling models certainly looked as if they were enjoying themselves as the late afternoon sun that beat down on the audience heightened the feeling of being smack dab in the middle of a summer heat wave.
But that is exactly what customers go to von Furstenberg for. Clothing that will bring a delighted smile to the face, give a bit more of a bounce to the step and always, always keep the woman in control of her feminine power. The brand’s new artistic director, Michael Herz, certainly got the DVF message loud and clear.
Even at her most playful, von Furstenberg makes sure to never lose track of the effect a woman in her clothing can have on the world.