Depending on the season, Karan shifts between tailoring and dresses. This collection was mostly built on the former. All manner of jackets, from blazers to a leather bomber, were belted at the midriff above tapering trousers or narrow skirts. Karan understands outerwear better than most designers. Keeping you warm, which her long-haired shearling-lined brocade number will surely do, is only half of the mission. The other part of the job—making a statement, polishing off a look—is just as essential. Which is where a gold coat with rich black embroidery on its back came in.
Her evening dresses had a similarly modern spirit. Bare-shouldered in the signature Donna way, the black gowns folded and tucked, exposing sheer panels here and there, but didn’t end up looking fussy. They were actually quite sleek.