It was easy to be a little worried about David Koma’s Spring presentation, now that the Georgian designer is the artistic director of Mugler. Since that was a lifelong dream for him, one wondered if he might put his heart and soul into Mugler at the expense of his eponymous line, or whether he’d be able to multitask.
Koma’s challenge was to make sure there was a distinct separation between his Mugler collection and his own, and also to breathe new life into his body-con aesthetic. The designer uses color sparingly—he is very architecturally oriented and often sticks to black and white—so it was a welcome surprise to see shots of citron yellow in the first looks. Color was introduced with restraint: a simple strip on just one side of some shorts, a pop of it on a waistline or collar.
The body-con pieces had cutout waists, sheer panel details, and organza overlay—add to all that the asymmetrical hem, and there were a lot of ideas not seen in previous Koma collections. A supersharp dress in electric blue or pure white had geometric cutouts and bathing-suit-strap details that added interest, but the real standouts were the crystal-embedded looks with minute handwork and meticulous geometry. All in all, Koma made his point: When it comes to his own line, he is definitely not asleep at the wheel.